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This automatic float switch is designed for automatic control and no-water protection of electrical pumps in water towers, water tanks and water po...
View full detailsThis automatic float switch is designed for automatic control and no-water protection of electrical pumps in water towers, water tanks and water po...
View full detailsThis automatic float switch is designed for automatic control and no-water protection of electrical pumps in water towers, water tanks and water po...
View full detailsA float switch is the cheapest piece of protection you can put on a pump. It senses the water level and tells the pump when to start and when to stop. Without one, a pump can run dry and burn out its seals and motor, or a tank can quietly overflow all night.
Pumptastic stocks cable-suspended float switches in 10m, 20m and 30m lead lengths, plus Matelec multi-float trees for pump stations that need several switching points on one bracket. Everything ships Australia-wide from our Western Australian warehouse, and our team can tell you which switch suits your pump before you order.
Inside the sealed plastic body is a small microswitch and a weight. As the water level rises or falls, the float tilts. Once it passes roughly horizontal, the weight shifts and the microswitch flicks over, opening or closing the circuit that feeds the pump.
That simple action covers two opposite jobs:
On most cable-suspended float switches you swap between the two by turning the float 180 degrees. Always check the wiring diagram supplied with your switch before you commit.
The most common style in Australia, and the one most people picture when they hear "float switch". A polypropylene float hangs on a length of flexible cable from a bracket, a cable weight or the pump's discharge pipe. The length of free cable between the anchor point and the float sets the switching range - more free cable means a bigger gap between the on and off levels.
Our 10m float switch, 20m float switch and 30m float switch all use the same design - only the cable length changes. Pick the length based on the distance from the water back to your control box or power point, not on the depth of the tank.
A pump station often needs more than one switching point: a stop level, a start level, a lag pump start and a high-level alarm. Rigging four separate floats on one riser is fiddly, and they tangle.
The Matelec Multi-Level Float Tree solves that by mounting the floats on a single moulded assembly at fixed spacings. Installation is faster, the levels stay where you set them, and the floats cannot wrap around each other. We stock three-float versions in 10m and 20m cable, and a four-float 20m version for stations that also need an alarm level. See the full Matelec range for matching control gear.
If you are starting from scratch, an automatic pump may be simpler than a manual pump plus a separate switch. Several Davey pumps and models in our sump pump range ship with a float already fitted and wired.
This is the question we get asked most, and the answer catches people out. The cable length on a float switch is about reach, not depth. You need enough cable to run from the float, up out of the tank or pit, and across to wherever the pump plugs in or the control box sits.
Measure the actual cable path before you order. Joining extra cable onto a float switch lead is not ideal in a wet pit, and running short means starting again.
A float switch handles level. It does not handle pressure, phase failure or overload. Most installations pair it with other components:
On most cable-suspended floats you rotate the float body 180 degrees so the switch operates on the opposite tilt. Some models instead use different cores in the cable for pump-up and pump-down. Check the diagram that comes with your switch - do not assume.
Enough to reach from the float, out of the tank, and back to the pump's plug or control box. Measure the whole path. Cable length is about reach, not water depth.
A piggyback-plug float switch plugs into a standard outlet with the pump plugged into the back of it, so no electrician is needed for that connection. Anything hard-wired into a control box or switchboard is licensed electrical work in Australia and must be done by a qualified electrician.
Usually the free cable length is too short, so the on and off levels are only a few centimetres apart. Let out more cable between the tether point and the float to widen the gap. Also check the float is not catching on pipework partway through its swing.
Not directly. The float should switch a contactor or controller, which then switches the pump. Running a large motor's full load through a float switch's internal microswitch will burn the contacts out. Call us if you are unsure what your pump needs.
Only if it is rated for it. Sewage and greywater applications need a float with a suitable body and cable sheath, mounted so solids and rags cannot foul it. The Matelec float trees are built for pump station duty.
There is no fixed figure - life depends on how many times it operates and what it sits in. A float in a rainwater tank that cycles a few times a day will outlast one in a busy sewage station by years. Because they are a wear item, many sites keep a spare on the shelf.
Yes. We ship float switches Australia-wide, with free shipping on orders over $100.
If you know your pump model and roughly how far the cable has to run, we can tell you which switch to order in a couple of minutes. Call (08) 6384 5884 or get in touch here. Pumptastic is based at 7 Hampton St, Greenfields WA 6210.
$100.00 away from free shipping!