Bore Pump Sizing: Quick Aussie Guide

Choosing the right bore pump shouldn’t feel like decoding a manual written in another language. Yet for many Australians especially those on rural properties, hobby farms, off-grid setups, or large garden blocks sizing a bore pump turns into guesswork. And guesswork is exactly how people burn out pumps, waste power, and ruin bores that took thousands to drill.

This guide cuts through the noise. No fluff. No generic advice written for another country’s conditions. Just practical insight for Australian bore owners who need a pump that performs reliably in tough, variable environments.

Whether you're using a submersible pump, a positive displacement pump, a progressive cavity pump, or a water transfer pump feeding a water tank and pump system, the size and type you choose will determine everything: flow, pressure, running cost, maintenance, and longevity.

Below is what most people get wrong and how to fix it.

Why Bore Pump Sizing Matters More in Australia

Australian groundwater varies wildly. One region gives you clean, shallow flow. Another delivers mineral-heavy water at challenging depths. And the climate? Unforgiving.

A poorly selected bore pump creates predictable problems:

• Inconsistent water pressure
  
  

• Overheating and premature failure
  
  

• Excessive power consumption
  
  

• Sand ingress and damage to pump internals
  
  

• Reduced lifetime of expensive bores
  
  

Most households assume any water pump will do the job especially when a cheap option looks tempting. That’s a fast track to repairs. Choosing correctly means knowing your bore, your demand, and the different types of pumps available.

Step 1: Know Your Bore Specifications

You can't size a pump until you know three basics. If you ignore these, you're flying blind.

1. Bore depth

Not “roughly 40 metres.” You need an accurate figure. Depth determines:

• Motor power
  
  

• Pump stage count
  
  

• Pressure capability
  
  

2. Standing water level (SWL)

This is the water height when the bore isn't being pumped. It tells you how far the pump must lift water.

3. Pumping water level (PWL)

This is where the water drops to once the pump is running. Misjudge this and you’ll pick a pump with too little head, forcing it to run at its limits.

Your driller should have provided a bore report. If you lost it, get it re-measured and stop pretending you can skip this step. You can't.

Step 2: Work Out Your Required Flow Rate

Most Australians underestimate or overestimate their water demand. Both mistakes cost you money.

Typical flow rate needs

• Household use: 20–60 L/min
  
  

• Garden irrigation: 40–120 L/min
  
  

• Stock watering: 30–150 L/min depending on herd size
  
  

• Large properties: 60–200+ L/min
  
  

If you size based on peak flow rather than average flow, you’ll overspend on pump and power costs. If you size too small, you’ll get frustrating pressure drops.

Stick to what you actually need, not what feels “safe” or “future proof.”

Step 3: Choose the Right Pump Type

This is where most people sabotage themselves. They choose based on price or whatever they used previously not what their bore actually requires.

Below are the pump types Australians commonly use, and the situations they suit.

Submersible Pump

The go-to for most bores. Installed deep underground, quiet, efficient, and reliable.

Best for:

• Deep bores
  
  

• Clean to mildly sandy water
  
  

• Household supply
  
  

• Irrigation setups
  
  

• Water tank and pump systems
  
  

Submersible pumps from proven brands like Davey pumps or Tsurumi pumps (link included below) are built for Australian conditions and outperform cheaper imports by a mile.

Progressive Cavity Pump

A powerful positive displacement pump that excels in low-yield bores where a standard centrifugal design struggles.

Best for:

• Low-flow bores
  
  

• Sandy or abrasive water
  
  

• When consistent pressure is required
  
  

• Long distances or high head
  
  

If you’ve been burning out submersible pumps because your bore can’t deliver enough water, this is the point where you stop blaming the pump and switch to a progressive cavity pump.

Positive Displacement Pump

A broader category that includes progressive cavity pumps. They move water with precision and maintain flow even when bore pressure fluctuates.

Best for:

• Shallow or inconsistent bores
  
  

• Trickling yields
  
  

• Long-distance pumping
  
  

They aren’t the cheapest. But they’re workhorses in the right environment.

Water Transfer Pump

Not typically used inside the bore, but common for moving water from bore to tank, tank to garden, tank to shed, and so on.

Great for:

• Property owners managing multiple tanks
  
  

• Flood management
  
  

• Rapid movement of large water volumes
  
  

Priming Pump

Used where pumps aren’t self-priming. In Australia’s dusty, dry environments, losing prime is a common issue. This pump prevents airlocks from shutting your system down.

If your old pump constantly “ran dry” or needed manual repriming, the priming pump is the fail-safe you should have installed years ago.

Sump Pump

Not a bore pump, but relevant for Aussies managing groundwater issues around sheds, underhouses, or stormwater pits. People confuse these with bore pumps they’re not interchangeable.

Pond Pump

Again, not for bores but commonly mistaken as a cheap solution. It’s not. A pond pump isn’t built for bore pressure or minerals. Don’t sabotage your system by trying to save money.

Step 4: Calculate Total Dynamic Head (TDH)

This is the actual load on your pump. Ignore it and your pump won’t perform the way you think.

TDH includes:

• Lift from pumping water level
  
  

• Distance travelled
  
  

• Friction losses through pipe
  
  

• Required outlet pressure
  
  

Every metre and every bend matters. Australians running long rural pipe runs often forget friction loss then wonder why their “strong pump” delivers a weak trickle at the tanks.

Step 5: Factor in Water Quality

Australian bores can contain:

• Iron
  
  

• Manganese
  
  

• Sand
  
  

• Clay turbidity
  
  

• Salt
  
  

Water quality determines:

• Whether you need a submersible pump or progressive cavity pump
  
  

• The materials your pump must be built from
  
  

• Maintenance frequency
  
  

• Expected lifespan
  
  

Cut corners here and you’re buying a pump every two years.

Step 6: Choose Quality Over Price

If you want reliability, stick with brands engineered for Australian conditions.

High-quality pump brands available through Pumptastic include:

• Davey Pumps
  
  

• Tsurumi pumps
  
  

• Other proven submersible and positive displacement options
  
  

Cheap pumps fail early. When they fail inside a bore, extraction costs wipe out any “savings.”

If you want guidance or expert sizing help, you can reach out via Contact us don’t rely on improvisation for a system worth thousands.

5 Common Questions Australians Ask About Bore Pump Sizing

1. What size pump do I need for a 40–60 metre bore?

It depends on water level and flow rate needed. A typical household might use a 0.75–1.5 kW submersible pump but low-yield bores may require a progressive cavity pump instead.

2. Can I use a normal water pump in my bore?

No. Bore conditions need a submersible pump or positive displacement pump designed for depth, pressure, and minerals. A standard water pump won’t survive.

3. How do I stop my bore pump from sucking air?

Your bore may have a low yield. Switching to a positive displacement pump or progressive cavity pump or lowering the pump solves most air draw issues.

4. Why is my bore pump losing pressure over time?

Likely causes:

• Incorrect pump sizing
  
  

• Worn impellers
  
  

• Sand damage
  
  

• Falling bore levels
  
  

Sizing properly from the start avoids this.

5. How long should a good bore pump last in Australia?

A quality submersible pump can last 8–15 years. A progressive cavity pump can last even longer with correct maintenance. Cheap pumps cut that lifespan in half or worse.